A garage door that won’t open is one of the most common calls we get — and more often than not, the cause is one of a handful of usual suspects. Here’s how to check them safely before you call for a technician.
Before assuming the worst, rule out the simple stuff: is the opener actually getting power (outlet, breaker, and the unit’s own on/off switch), is the remote’s battery dead, and has the vacation or manual-lock switch on the wall console been accidentally engaged? These account for a surprising share of the “door won’t open” calls we get.
The two small sensors mounted a few inches off the floor on each track have to maintain a clear, aligned line of sight — anything blocking the beam, a spider web across the lens, or a sensor knocked slightly out of alignment will stop the door from operating at all. Each sensor has a small LED that should glow solid; a blinking LED on either one almost always points straight at this.
A door that won’t budge even after ruling out power and sensors is often a broken spring or a disconnected opener trolley, not something worth forcing by hand or repeatedly pulling the emergency release. Forcing a spring-tensioned door is a genuine injury risk — that’s the point to stop and call a technician instead of continuing to troubleshoot.
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